How-To: Round Brush For Loose Curl And Wave

Published by: Andrew Carruthers
Apr 02, 2019

“Achieving beautifully shaped shiny curls can absolutely be achieved with just a brush and a blow dryer, the secret is in using a small thermal brush and an “ends first” technique,” says Andrew Carruthers, Education Director for Sam Villa. 


Brush
Use smaller brushes to craft a nice curl pattern; larger brushes are better for smoothing and straightening, while smaller brushes create more definition and shape.
A combination of a small brush with boar bristles and a thermal core is magic, because the boar bristles create shine while the thermal core heats to shape.  The Sam Villa Artist Series Spiral Thermal Brush even has a spiral pattern that creates tension and works hair closer to the core for more heat action. 

Technique

When drying, instead of starting at the base and working out to the ends which requires stretching the base and midshaft after they’ve been curled, minimizing the curl action, dry the ends first.  After ends are dry and curled, move to the midshaft, while it is being styled the ends are naturally wrapping around the brush, so when they cool, they lock in the texture pattern creating a better curl.  The same happens when the base is being dried, then both the midshaft and ends are wrapping while they cool to lock in shape.

Use vertical sections so the curls have their own space to move.  Horizontal sections create layer upon layer of curl, which condenses the pattern and increases density.
Once cool, separate curls gently with Redken Dry Shampoo Paste 05, it’s half dry shampoo and half paste, so it separates like a paste and leaves a matte finish like a dry shampoo.

“Blow drying can create some really beautiful texture when you use a brush that has a thermal core with boar bristles, the combination is pretty hard to beat when you’re going for polish and shape,” adds Carruthers.
Photography: Courtesy of Sam Villa

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About The Expert

Andrew Carruthers
Director of Education for Sam Villa

Andrew Carruthers’ career as a hairdresser has been extremelydiverse.  Fueled by over 17 years of fulltime work in a salon, his experience also includes salon ownership,photographic work, as well as personal and professional coaching. As an educator, Andrew has worked for many national cosmetologybrands and is currently the Education Director for Sam Villa®, abrand that provides a wide variety of both online and live education.  From small hands-on classes to large stages, hislove for supporting others personal growth and sharing his discoveries has beena passion since the early days of his career. Primarily focusing on women’s and men’s haircutting and finishing, hisapproach to education is all about connecting with the everyday hairdresser andoffering them the tools necessary to build a fulfilling and long-lasting career. "I'm not trying to impress the top 5% with what I do, I’mthinking about how I can serve the 95% of our industry that works at XYZ BeautySalon to make every day stronger in their career.”